The celerity of a group of waves all traveling at the same speed in the same direction is less than the speed of individual waves within the group. If the water is deeper than wave base: orbits are circular there is no interaction between the bottom and the wave If the water is shallower than wave base: orbits are elliptical Orbits become increasingly flattened towards the bottom 7-2 Wave Motionsġ1 The Distortion of Water-Particle Orbits in Shallow Waterġ2 There are three types of waves defined by water depth:ĭeep-water wave Intermediate-water wave Shallow-water wave Celerity is the velocity of the wave form, not of the water. Figure 7-2 Wave Motion 7-2 Wave MotionsĨ Water molecules move in an orbital motion as the wave passes.ĭiameter of orbit: increases with increasing wave size decreases with depth below the water surface 7-2 Wave Motionsĩ The Motion of Water Particles Beneath Wavesįigure 7-3a Wave Motion with Depth Figure 7-3b Orbits of Water Particles Figure 7-3c Stokes Drift 7-2 Wave Motionsġ0 Wave base is the depth to which a surface wave can move water. It is a good indicator of potential for: wave damage to ships erosion of shorelines 7-1 Properties of Ocean Wavesħ Progressive waves are waves that move across a surfaceĪs waves pass, wave form and wave energy move rapidly forward, but not the water. Significant wave height is the average of the highest 1/3 of the waves present. 7-1 Properties of Ocean WavesĦ A fully developed sea means the wind-generated waves are as large as they can be under current wind velocity and fetch. Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by: wind velocity wind duration fetch original state of the sea surface As wind velocity increases: Wavelength period height increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient. Parts of a wave are: wave crest wave trough wave height (H) wave amplitude wave length (L) wave period (T) 7-1 Properties of Ocean Wavesģ Wave classification Wave period provides a basis for classifying wavesįigure 7-1a Wave Parameters Figure 7-1b Idealized Wave Spectrum 7-1 Properties of Ocean Wavesĥ Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves
2 Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface
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